Water Safari in the Galapagos

On safari, you hope to see the Big Five. That’s the attitude I took with me to the Galapagos: If I’m lucky, I may see a Giant Tortoise from a distance, or maybe a bird with coloured feet, or one of those land dragon things… Ha! Within five minutes of disembarking the plane I had almost trodden on a snoozing sea-lion. During our brief tender ride to the yacht we seemed to be dodging turtles left, right and centre. I’m sure a pelican nearly landed on my shoulder.

It’s strange, to come across wild animals who show no fear of humans. To be able to stand just one metre from a nesting mother and her chicks. To lumber about in your wetsuit while baby sea-lions use you as swim practice. To feel stingrays slide over your feet in the shallows. This is the most truly natural place I have ever been. 

Galapagos. It literally means Giant Tortoises: The Islands of the Giant Tortoise. But after a week exploring this other-worldly, volcanic island chain, 1,000 km off the Ecuadorian coast, I have to wonder how it is they decided the Giant Tortoise was the most remarkable thing about the place. Because it isn’t just the Giant Tortoise that’s endemic here. Every five minutes our guide is pointing out another species found, not just here in the Galapagos, but literally just here, on this one tiny island.

So, apart from the 170-year-old tortoise that’s practically the size of a Mini? Well, the marine iguanas are living dinosaurs, hammering home the impression that nature rules here, not man. Then there are Darwin’s Finches, another live history lesson. And all those Boobies, not just blue footed, but red footed, blue beaked and masked. The Galapagos Hawks, the Waved Albatross, the Lava Lizards, who look like they’ve dipped their heads in the nearest steaming volcano. Even the crabs here are interesting. Forget the pale, creepy spectres you’re used to. Here the crabs are like a thousand, thousand jewels decorating the blackened, volcanic coastline. I took at least 100 photos just of crabs. Crabs. But seriously, do you see how red that crab is?

It’s easy to get carried away by the animals, but that shouldn’t detract from the rest on offer. No one mentioned quite how white the beaches would be, that the sea would rival the Caribbean for its shade of turquoise, or the way the volcanic sand would sparkle. “Swarovski wos ‘ere!” we chanted in unison as we jumped out of the tender on one expedition. Only instead of overweight, sunburned tourists, we encounter families of another kind enjoying the sun, surf and sand (just-the-right-plumpness they are, too). I’m not sure any beach will be the same again now I’ve body surfed with baby sea-lions.

Every day we explore both land and sea. I don’t dive, but I have vowed to do my PADI after this. White tip sharks, hammerheads, (they apparently really don’t bite), turtles, penguins, hunting sea-bids, plus all the tropical fish you can ask for.

Whether you’re five years old or 95, these islands and their scaled, feathered and furred inhabitants are utterly enchanting. So yes, go to see the Giant Tortoise by all means, but expect to be equally wowed by the Flamingoes, Boobies, Lizards, Iguanas, Turtles, Sharks, Sea-Lions, Penguins, Hawks, Albatrosses, the sparkling sand and even those crabs (officially known, by the way, as Sally Lightfoots, or is that Lightfeet?).